Ana SayfaCrochet & Knitting3 CROCHET HANDBAGS FROM HEXAGONS - FREE PHOTO TUTORIAL

3 CROCHET HANDBAGS FROM HEXAGONS – FREE PHOTO TUTORIAL

The other two variants are based on the first one and are formed very similarly – from the same hexagons or squares.

 

 

 

 

 

1. Crochet handbag from two hexagons and a square

The bag crochets very well and quite quickly. It is formed by one square, which forms the bottom, and two hexagons on the sides. It is crocheted with long double crochets and therefore increases nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Handbag material:

They most often use YarnArt Macrame Cotton yarn (usually 2mm) for this handbag . Most often with hook No. 5 . Those who tighten less can use hook #4,5. The size of the resulting bag with Macrame Cotton is approximately 26 cm wide and approximately 37 cm high. Consumption approx. 1.5 balls.

I had previously bought two dark blue balls of the polyester version of YarnArt Macrame , so I crocheted them with a size 4 hook . The handbag then turned out to be a little smaller, 30 cm high and approx. 20 cm wide (at the bottom) (approx. 25 cm in the middle).Schemes for crocheting individual parts of the handbag:

Explanations of abbreviations in the description:

PO = fixed stitch
ŘO = chain stitch
PDS = semi-long post
DS = long post
MK = magic ring
RS = corner group crocheted into the space at the square (bottom) from 2DS+3ŘO+2DS
RS2 = corner group into the space at the hexagon (side) from 1DS+2ŘO+1DS

Square bottom for a crocheted purse

Square bottom (diagonally folded in the final) – 5 rows of the basic square from long posts. 3 chain stitches are crocheted in the corners.
1st row: Into the magic ring, we crochet 3RC (instead of the 1st column) + 3DC, 3RC, 4RC, 3RC 4RC, 3RC, 4RC, and in the last corner 1RC and 1DC inserted into the top of the 3RC at the beginning of the row (replaces 2RC);
So we have four sides after 4DS and in the corners after 3ŘO.

 

 

 

2nd row: 3CH, 1DC into the space, followed by 4DC into the posts in the previous row (for the less experienced, see note below).

Note: Always make sure that the first of the double crochets that are to be crocheted over the posts from the previous row, are crocheted under the threads (loop) that point towards the first post (so they are actually just in front of it) and not all the way behind the post. Then the number of columns would not work for you. The fourth column will again be before the last column. This rule will apply analogously in all rows and also for hexagons.  For greater clarity, I took a photo and highlighted the given place in color:After crocheting 4DC into the columns from the previous row, we have reached the next corner (gap) from the 3RD and we can continue by crocheting the corner group  (hereinafter referred to as  RS ) from  2DC+3RD+2DC.We continue again 4DS to the posts, RS , 4DS to the posts, RS , 4DS to the posts. And in the starting corner, we add 2DS, 1ŘO and 1PDS to the upper chain stitch in the gap.

3rd row: 3RC, 1DC into the gap, 8DC into the posts in the previous row, RS , 8DC, RS , 8DC, RS , 8DC, 1RC, 1PDS to the top of the beginning.

 

 

4th row: 3CH, 1DC into the gap, 12DC into the posts in the previous row, RS , 12DC, RS , 12DC, RS , 12DC, 1RC, 1PDS to the top of the beginning.

5th row: 3RC, 1DC into the gap, 16DC into the posts in the previous row, RS , 16DC, RS , 16DC, RS , 16DC, 3RC, 1PO to the beginning and we finish.

Tip – larger handbag : 
If you would like a larger purse, you can continue with the same logic. But then you have to increase the size of the side parts in a corresponding way – it roughly corresponds to the ratio of 1 extra row of a square = 2 extra rows of a hexagon. You can check that the resulting side of the square and the hexagon should be the same length +- the same number of posts.
Just make sure you have enough yarn. I had 2 balls of 130m each and unfortunately it wouldn’t work for me on a bigger one. So get 3 balls for the bigger one.

The hexagonal sides of the handbag

We crochet two identical hexagons on the sides. You can find the drawing above along with the square.

Unlike the English drawing provided by Ms. Gabriela or Ms. Mila Nka on Facebook, I suggest starting again with the magic circle. With a stronger yarn, the center of the 6Ø ring might not fit. The magic ring, on the other hand, adapts nicely to the size.

1st row: We crochet 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), then repeat [ 3DC + 2DC 5 and finish with 2DC and 1DC into the upper chain stitch at the beginning of the row.

2nd row: Move with 1P into the gap, 3P (instead of 1P), 2P (first space), 1P into the gap, now crochet the first side of the 3P into the posts, and come to the second corner (of the space). We crochet a corner group of RS2 into it ( 1DC+2DC+1DC ) and repeat  3 DC into the columns, RS2 4 and finish with 3DC and 1PO into the top chain stitch at the beginning of the row.

4th row: Shift with 1DC into the gap, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the gap, 7DC + RS2 5 , add 7DC to the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the top chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
5th row: Shift with 1DC into the space, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the space, 9DC + RS2 5 , add 9DC into the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the upper chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
6th row: Shift with 1DC into the gap, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the gap, 11DC + RS2 5 , add 11DC to the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the upper chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
7th row: Shift with 1DC into the space, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the space, 13DC + RS2 5 , add 13DC to the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the upper chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
8th row: Shift with 1DC into the space, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the space, 15DC + RS2 5 , add 15DC into the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the top chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
9th row: Shift with 1DC into the gap, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the space, 17DC + RS2 5 , add 17DC to the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the upper chain stitch at the beginning of the row.
10th row: Shift with 1DC into the gap, 3DC (instead of 1DC), 2DC (first space), 1DC into the space, 19DC + RS2 5 , add 19DC to the columns (last side) and join 1DC into the top chain stitch at the beginning of the row.

 

 

 

 

If you want a bigger handbag, you can continue in the same way. 

You crochet a total of 2 of the same hexagons.

 

Now we should have 3 parts ready:

Stitching a handbag

As already mentioned, the sides are made of folded hexagons and the bottom is made of a folded square (in the picture with the diagram, it is sketched and marked with a pencil which part is where). Therefore, place the sides of the hexagons to the adjacent sides of the squares (side to side, corner to corner) and sew or crochet the sides together. I sewed a double solid thread in this style, from the reverse of the crochet.Then fold all the parts in half and sew them together again.

At the end, hook the upper edge with short posts for greater reinforcement so that it does not pull out when worn.

I also recommend sewing the end of the yarn from the magic ring firmly so that the MK doesn’t come loose. After all, polyester yarn is a bit slippery.

Ear, belt, lining?

You can crochet the ear for the handbag Alternatively, attach a purchased ear.

As I already wrote, I recycled an older handbag, so I used the ear from it, as well as the lining, which I resized and sewed into the handbag.
But the lining is not necessary. You can leave the purse without it.
And this is what the finished handbag looks like:

2. Crochet bag from 3 hexagons and 2 squares

Using the same hexagons and squares, you can also create a different shapeIt is a combination of 3 hexagons (8 rows each) and 2 squares (5 rows each) – follow the instructions and diagram above for handbag no.1. 
You will use one hexagon for the bottom, the sides will be from squares, and the front and back top from the remaining two hexagons. Looks great too

3. Hexagon Crochet Purse

Another interesting variant of the handbag is , to whom I would like to thank for the instructions and photo. Crocheted with Macrame Cotton yarn 2 mm, hook no. 5. Consumption 1.5 balls.

You crochet two hexagons (again according to the drawing/instruction above for the first handbag), each measuring 10 rows.
Bottom : Count from the edge on each side and place a marker in the ninth DC. From the tenth dc, you crochet the bottom all the way to the second marker using short double crochets. Crochet 7 rows with short double crochets (1 double crochet in each row) (you can do more if you want the bottom to be wider), crochet 2 SC into the gap in the corners.
Mirror crochet the second hexagon as well.
Finally,  hook the upper part of the handbag with short posts for greater strength.
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